Category Archives: Disease – Herbaceous Ornamental

Disease - Broad Leafed Woody Ornamental, Disease - Field and Forage, Disease - Fruit Crop, Disease - Herbaceous Ornamental, Disease - Needled Woody Ornamental, Disease - Vegetable, Misc, Turf

Dodder

July 21, 2015 hudelson

UW Plant Disease Facts

Authors: Jennifer Clifford, Amilcar Sanchez, Trenton Stanger, and Brian Hudelson UW-Madison Plant Pathology

Last Revised: 02/29/2024

D-number: D0129

Spaghetti-like dodder plants parasitizing carrots.

What is dodder?

Dodder is the name of several species of parasitic plants that are widely distributed in North America and Europe. Plants parasitized by dodder include alfalfa, carrots, onions, potatoes, cranberries, a variety of herbaceous and woody ornamentals, and many weed species. Parasitized plants become weakened, have reduced yields (in the case of agronomic crops), and can potentially die.

What does dodder look like?

Dodders lack roots and leaves, and also lack chlorophyll, the green pigment found in most plants. Dodders have slender, yellow-orange stems that cover infected plants in a spreading, tangled, spaghetti-like mass. From May through July, dodders produce white, pink, or yellowish flowers.

Where does dodder come from?

Dodders produce large numbers of seeds that germinate in the spring to produce shoots that attach to suitable host plants. Dodders penetrate host tissue, and absorb nutrients via specialized structures called haustoria. Once established on a host, the bottom of a dodder plant dies (thereby severing its connection with the soil), and the dodder plant becomes dependent on the host plant for water and nutrients.

How do I save plants parasitized by dodder?

On woody ornamentals, simply prune out dodder-parasitized branches. When small patches of dodder occur among herbaceous plants, apply contact herbicides such as 2,4-D early in the season, preferably before dodder seedlings have parasitized host plants. Keep in mind that use of contact herbicides will likely also kill host plants. Alternatively, cut or burn dodder and parasitized plants to keep dodder from spreading, and to prevent seed production. For widespread dodder infestations, a combination of frequent tilling, burning and herbicide applications may be needed to achieve control. Be sure to read and follow all label instructions of the herbicide that you select to ensure that you use the product in the safest and most effective manner possible.

How do I avoid problems with dodder in the future?

Dodder’s wide host range and ability to survive as dormant seeds in soil make eradication difficult. Preventing introduction of dodder is the best method of control. Use dodder-free seed, and be sure to clean equipment thoroughly after working in a dodder-infested area. Try to restrict animal movement between infested and non-infested areas as well. Depending upon the specific crop or location, use of pre-emergent herbicides containing DCPA, dichlobenil, propyzamide, or trifluralin may be possible to prevent germination of dodder seeds. Destroy actively growing dodder and any parasitized plants before the dodder produces seeds. In agricultural settings where dodder has been a problem, rotate away from susceptible crops and grow non-host crops (e.g., corn, soybeans, or small grain cereals). In conjunction with rotation, adequate control of weed hosts is critical to achieve control.

For more information on dodder:

Contact the University of Wisconsin Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic (PDDC) at (608) 262-2863 or pddc@wisc.edu.

This Fact Sheet is also available in PDF format:

Full Color PDF

An EEO/Affirmative Action employer, University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension provides equal opportunities in employment and programming, including Title IX and ADA requirements. This document can be provided in an alternative format by calling Brian Hudelson at (608) 262-2863 (711 for Wisconsin Relay).

References to pesticide products in this publication are for your convenience and are not an endorsement or criticism of one product over similar products. You are responsible for using pesticides according to the manufacturer’s current label directions. Follow directions exactly to protect the environment and people from pesticide exposure. Failure to do so violates the law.

Thanks to Lis Friemoth, Matt Lippert and Dan O’Neil for reviewing this document.

A complete inventory of UW Plant Disease Facts is available at the University of Wisconsin-Madison Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic website: https://pddc.wisc.edu.

Submit additional lawn, landscape, and gardening questions at https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/ask-a-gardening-question/.

Disease - Herbaceous Ornamental

Daylily Leaf Streak

July 19, 2015 hudelson

UW Plant Disease Facts

Authors: Megan Meyers* and Brian Hudelson, UW-Madison Plant Pathology

Last Revised: 02/29/2024

D-number: D0039

What is leaf streak?

Leaf streak is a common disease of daylilies, affecting daylilies wherever they are grown. Daylily varieties can vary widely in terms of their susceptibility to the disease. Oftentimes leaf streak is a cosmetic problem, causing little damage. In some cases however, leaf streak can cause substantial leaf loss, and rarely, it may lead to complete defoliation of daylily plants.

Yellowing and browning of leaves typical of daylily leaf streak. (Photo courtesy of Doug Maxwell)

What does leaf streak look like?

Leaf streak symptoms often initially appear as yellowing that begins at leaf tips and spreads down along and outward from the midveins of leaves. This tissue eventually browns and dies. Red-brown flecks may also be a symptom of leaf streak. These flecks enlarge, turn brown and become surrounded by yellow halos. As the disease progresses, complete leaf death can occur.

Where does leaf streak come from?

Leaf streak is caused by the fungus Aureobasidium microstictum. This fungus overwinters in daylily leaf debris where it produces spores that initiate the disease each spring. Spores produced on infected leaves lead to additional infections. The disease is most common in warm, wet weather.

How do I save a plant with leaf streak?

Remove infected leaves as they appear, and fertilize and water your plants properly to promote growth of new leaves. DO NOT water with a sprinkler. This can spread the leaf streak fungus, as well create conditions more favorable for infection. Instead, use a soaker or drip hose to apply water directly into the soil. To further limit pathogen spread, avoid working with plants when they are wet.

How do I avoid problems with leaf streak in the future?

Remove dead leaves from daylilies each fall to eliminate a source of the leaf streak fungus. Burn (where allowed by local ordinance), deep bury or hot compost this material. As daylily plants grow, divide them into smaller clumps, and replant them with ample space between clumps. This will improve air circulation and promote more rapid leaf drying. Consider using daylily varieties (e.g., ‘Betty Bennet’, ‘Edna Spalding’, ‘Ella Pettigrew’, ‘Globe Trotter’, ‘Nancy Hicks’, ‘Pink Superior’, ‘Ron Rousseau’, ‘Sudie’, ‘Tropical Tones’, ‘Upper Room’, ‘Winsome Lady’) with reported leaf streak resistance. Keep in mind however, that resistant varieties may not perform well every year and under all environmental conditions. If you grow daylily varieties that have severe leaf streak every year, consider applying fungicides containing chlorothalonil, mancozeb or thiophanate-methyl to prevent the disease. Use fungicides only during periods of wet weather. Start applications before you see symptoms and treat every seven to 14 days as long as wet weather persists. DO NOT use the same active ingredient for all treatments, particularly if you decide to use thiophanate-methyl. Alternate use of at least two active ingredients to help minimize problems with fungicide-resistant strains of the leaf streak pathogen. Be sure to read and follow all label instructions of the fungicides that you select to ensure that you use them in the safest and most effective manner possible.

For more information on daylily leaf streak:

Contact the University of Wisconsin Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic (PDDC) at (608) 262-2863 or pddc@wisc.edu.

This Fact Sheet is also available in PDF format:

Full Color PDF

*Completed as partial fulfillment of the requirements for a BS in Plant Pathology at the University of Wisconsin Madison.

Thanks to Heidi Doering, Doug Maxwell and Ann Wied for reviewing this document.

A complete inventory of UW Plant Disease Facts is available at the University of Wisconsin-Madison Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic website: https://pddc.wisc.edu.

Submit additional lawn, landscape, and gardening questions at https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/ask-a-gardening-question/.

Disease - Herbaceous Ornamental, Disease - Vegetable

Damping-Off

July 19, 2015 hudelson

UW Plant Disease Facts

Authors: Brian Hudelson, UW-Madison Plant Pathology

Last Revised: 02/29/2024

D-number: D0038

What is damping-off?

Damping-off is a common and fatal disease that affects all types of plant seedlings. The disease is most prevalent when seeds are germinated in cool, wet soils. Fortunately, seedlings are susceptible to damping-off for only a short period following emergence. As plants age, their susceptibility to damping-off declines.

Lower stem collapse of Zinnia seedlings due to damping-off.

What does damping-off look like?

Seedlings killed by damping-off initially are healthy but shortly after emergence become infected at or just below the soil line. The lower stems of the seedlings collapse, and the seedlings fall over onto the soil surface. The seedlings subsequently die.

Where does damping-off come from?

Damping-off is caused by several soil-borne water molds and fungi, including (but not limited to) Pythium spp., Rhizoctonia solani and Fusarium spp. These organisms readily survive and are moved in soil or on soil-contaminated items such as pots, tools and workbenches.

How do I save seedlings with damping-off?

Seedlings with damping-off will die and cannot be saved. Proper prevention is the only way to avoid problems with this disease.

How do I avoid problems with damping-off in the future?

When planting seeds, make sure that work areas, tools and pots are pathogen-free. Decontaminate tools and workbenches by treating them for at least 30 seconds with 10% bleach or (preferably due to its less corrosive properties) 70% alcohol (e.g., rubbing alcohol or certain spray disinfectants). Decontaminate pots by washing them with soapy water to remove bits of old soil, soaking them for at least 20 minutes in 10% bleach, and then rinsing them thoroughly to remove bleach residues. DO NOT reuse plastic pots if you have had problems with damping-off or root rots (see UW Plant Disease Facts D0095, Root Rots in the Garden, for details) in the past, as they are difficult to decontaminate.

When planting, use a well-drained, pasteurized potting mixture. DO NOT use garden soils as they often contain damping-off pathogens. DO NOT plant seeds too deeply, and germinate seeds at high temperatures, so that seedlings rapidly grow out of the stage where they are susceptible to damping-off. DO NOT overwater as damping-off organisms are more active in wet soils. If the techniques described above do not work, then consider using fungicide-treated seed. In particular, plants grown from captan-treated seeds tend to have fewer problems with damping-off.

For more information on damping-off:

Contact the University of Wisconsin Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic (PDDC) at (608) 262-2863 or pddc@wisc.edu.

This Fact Sheet is also available in PDF format:

Full Color PDF

Thanks to Lis Friemoth, Ann Joy and Ann Wied for reviewing this document.

A complete inventory of UW Plant Disease Facts is available at the University of Wisconsin-Madison Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic website: https://pddc.wisc.edu.

Submit additional lawn, landscape, and gardening questions at https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/ask-a-gardening-question/.

Disease - Broad Leafed Woody Ornamental, Disease - Fruit Crop, Disease - Herbaceous Ornamental, Disease - Vegetable

Crown Gall

July 19, 2015 hudelson

UW Plant Disease Facts

Authors: Ann Joy and Brian Hudelson, UW-Madison Plant Pathology

Last Revised: 02/29/2024

D-number: D0035

What is a crown gall?

Crown gall is the most widely distributed bacterial disease of plants in the world, affecting over 100 species of fruit crops, and woody and herbaceous ornamentals, including rose, euonymus, lilac, poplar, viburnum, willow, apple, pear, brambles, stone fruits and grapes. Crown gall can cause severe damage on young plants, while mature woody plants with the disease may show no ill effects.

Crown gall leads to tumor-like growths that form at or near the soil line.

What does crown gall look like?

Crown gall gets its name from the round or irregularly shaped tumor-like growths (i.e., galls) that usually form on plant crowns just above or below the soil line. Galls can also form on roots, stems, trunks, or branches. Galls can be pea-sized, or as large as several inches in diameter. Galls interfere with water transport within the plant. Therefore, affected plants may suffer from water or nutrient deficiencies, becoming stunted. Flower and fruit production may also be reduced.

Where does crown gall come from?

Crown gall is caused primarily by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens, as well as (on grape) by A. vitis. Both bacteria survive in soil and in (or on) susceptible plant roots. The bacterium is spread through movement of contaminated soil, water and infected plant material. The bacterium enters plants through wounds (e.g., mechanical injuries including pruning cuts, freeze injury, and nematode feeding sites) or natural plant openings (e.g., lenticels) and stimulates plant cells to undergo unregulated growth, leading to gall formation. Once galls begin to form, they can continue to enlarge even if the bacterium is no longer present. Galls become visible anywhere from several weeks to one or more years after the time of infection.

How do I save a plant with crown gall?

There is no cure for crown gall once galls begin to form. Galls can be pruned away, but new galls may reform elsewhere on the plant. To prevent spread of the crown gall bacterium, remove infected plants, surrounding soil, and as many of the infected plant’s roots as possible.

How do I avoid problems with crown gall in the future?

Use disease-free, winter hardy stock from a reputable nursery and inspect the roots and crowns for galls before planting. Avoid wounding plants during transplant and cultivation. Decontaminate tools, equipment and shoes with 10% bleach or 70% alcohol for at least 30 seconds to prevent spread of the bacterium. Use of a biological control product can prevent A. tumefaciens infections at the time of planting. Current biological control products contain A. radiobacter, a close relative of the crown gall organism. These products are not effective on all hosts, or against all variants of the pathogen. In areas with infested soil, rotation to a non-susceptible plant (such as grass) for 3 years, may provide a good means of disease control. In commercial settings, soil fumigation may provide limited control of the crown gall bacterium in soil. However, fumigation does not kill the bacterium in roots that remain in the soil after removal of infected plants. Fumigation is not recommended for homeowners.

For more information on crown gall:

Contact the University of Wisconsin Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic (PDDC) at (608) 262-2863 or pddc@wisc.edu.

This Fact Sheet is also available in PDF format:

Full Color PDF

Thanks to Diana Alfuth, Paul Hartman, and Patty McManus for reviewing this document.

A complete inventory of UW Plant Disease Facts is available at the University of Wisconsin-Madison Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic website: https://pddc.wisc.edu.

Submit additional lawn, landscape, and gardening questions at https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/ask-a-gardening-question/.

Disease - Broad Leafed Woody Ornamental, Disease - Herbaceous Ornamental, Disease - Needled Woody Ornamental

Chlorosis

July 14, 2015 hudelson

UW Plant Disease Facts

Authors: Brian Hudelson, UW-Madison Plant Pathology

Last Revised: 02/29/2024

D-number: D0030

What is chlorosis?

Chlorosis is a common nutritional disorder of many woody ornamentals in Wisconsin, particularly in the southern and eastern parts of the state. Pin oaks are most commonly affected by chlorosis, although many other trees and shrubs (e.g., white oaks, red maples, white pines and rhododendrons) are also very susceptible.

Yellowing of foliage characteristic of chlorosis.

What does chlorosis look like?

Symptoms of chlorosis are easy to distinguish from those of other diseases. Affected leaves turn yellow, except for the veins, which remain green. In severe cases, foliage may turn brown and die. Symptoms can occur on isolated branches, or over an entire tree.

What causes chlorosis?

Chlorosis occurs when a tree or shrub is lacking certain micronutrients, in many cases iron or manganese. Lack of micronutrients in a tree may reflect a lack of these nutrients in the soil due to poor fertility. Often however, there are sufficient micronutrients, but they cannot be absorbed by a plant’s roots. Poor absorption of micronutrients is common in Wisconsin because of the high pH (alkalinity) of many soils.

How do I save a tree or shrub with chlorosis?

Chlorosis is rarely fatal and can be treated. For treatments to be effective, you must determine the exact cause of the chlorosis. Have the soil around an affected plant tested for micronutrients and for pH prior to applying any treatment. If the soil test indicates a lack of specific micronutrients, fertilize with these micronutrients. For example, chelated iron compounds can be used to increase the amount of iron in soil. If the soil test indicates a high soil pH, lower the pH by applying sulfur or ammonium sulfate. See University of Wisconsin Garden Facts XHT1151, Reducing Soil pH, for details. Contact your county Extension agent for information on soil testing and for tips on a treatment once you have determined the specific cause of your chlorosis problem.

How do I avoid problems with chlorosis in the future?

Plant trees and shrubs that are less susceptible to chlorosis. Also, make sure your trees and shrubs receive sufficient water (approximately one inch per week), as this will help plants with micronutrient uptake. During dry periods, use a drip hose or soaker hose to apply supplemental water. Remove turf from around the bases of trees and shrubs out to at least the drip lines, and apply shredded hardwood, pine or cedar mulch in these areas to help maintain soil moisture. On heavy clay soils, use one to two inches of mulch. On other soils, use three to four inches of mulch. Be sure to keep mulch four inches from the trunks of trees. If you decide to plant susceptible trees or shrubs, watch them closely for the yellowing characteristic of chlorosis, and apply corrective treatments as soon as symptoms appear. Treatments should always be based on the results of soil micronutrient and pH tests.

For more information on chlorosis:

Contact the University of Wisconsin Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic (PDDC) at (608) 262-2863 or pddc@wisc.edu.

This Fact Sheet is also available in PDF format:

Full Color PDF

Thanks to Sharon Morrisey, Patti Nagai and Ann Wied for reviewing this document.

A complete inventory of UW Plant Disease Facts is available at the University of Wisconsin-Madison Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic website: https://pddc.wisc.edu.

Submit additional lawn, landscape, and gardening questions at https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/ask-a-gardening-question/.

Disease - Broad Leafed Woody Ornamental, Disease - Field and Forage, Disease - Fruit Crop, Disease - Herbaceous Ornamental, Disease - Needled Woody Ornamental, Disease - Vegetable, Misc

Black Walnut Toxicity

July 6, 2015 hudelson

UW Plant Disease Facts

Authors: Ann Joy and Brian Hudelson, UW-Madison Plant Pathology; Laura Jull, UW-Madison Horticulture

Last Revised: 02/28/2024

D-number: D0021

What is black walnut toxicity?

Black walnut trees (Juglans nigra) produce a toxic substance (called juglone) that prevents many plants from growing under or near them. Related trees like butternut (J. cinerea) and shagbark hickory (Carya ovata) also produce juglone, but in lower concentrations than black walnut. Juglone occurs in all parts of black walnut trees, but especially in buds, nut hulls and roots. The toxic effects of a mature black walnut tree can extend 50 to 80 feet from the trunk of the tree, with the greatest toxicity occurring within the tree’s dripline. In this area, plants susceptible to juglone may wilt or die; plants tolerant to juglone will grow normally. Vegetables such as tomato, potato, eggplant and pepper, and ornamentals such as lilac, peony, rhododendron and azalea are particularly sensitive to juglone.

Wilting of eggplant due to black walnut toxicity.

What do the effects of black walnut toxicity look like?

Plants sensitive to juglone may be stunted, have yellow or brown, twisted leaves, exhibit wilting of some or all plant parts, and die over time. Often, the vascular (i.e., water-conducting) tissue of affected plants will be discolored. Symptoms may occur rapidly, even within a few days after sensitive species are transplanted into a walnut tree’s root zone. Alternatively, some plants may survive for years near a young walnut tree but then wilt and die as the tree increases in size. Black walnut toxicity can be confused with wilts caused by bacterial and fungal pathogens (e.g., see UW Plant Disease Facts D0121, Verticillium Wilt of Trees and Shrubs, and D0122, Verticillium Wilt of Vegetables), herbicide injury (see UW Plant Disease Facts D0060, Herbicide Damage), or drought.

How do I avoid problems with black walnut toxicity?

There is no cure for a plant affected by walnut toxicity. Removing a walnut tree may not be practical, as the tree could be the focal point in a landscape. In addition, even if a walnut tree is removed, juglones will not immediately be eliminated, because it is next to impossible to remove all root pieces from the soil and remaining pieces may continue to exude toxins for several years as they decay.

When establishing a garden around a walnut tree, try to plant species that are tolerant to juglone (see table on the reverse side). If you are growing sensitive species near a walnut tree, transplant them elsewhere in your garden. If you must grow sensitive plants near a black walnut, keep beds free of walnut leaves and hulls, and remove walnut seedlings as they appear. Grow shallow rooted woody and herbaceous plants, and improve drainage to help diminish the effects of juglone. Alternatively, consider building raised beds with wood, stone, or concrete barriers that limit root growth through and under the beds.

When disposing of bark and wood from a walnut tree, do not use these materials for mulch.

The information in the following table is intended to provide guidance in selecting plants to grow near walnut trees. Inclusion of plants in this table is based on observation, not on formal testing. In addition, the plant lists in this table are by no means exhaustive. Oftentimes the juglone sensitivity or tolerance of specific plants has never been observed or documented. Finally, sources often disagree on whether particular plants (e.g., columbine, lily, narcissus, tulip) are juglone sensitive or tolerant. Some varieties may be susceptible while others may be tolerant. Most plant species with conflicting information regarding their sensitivity or tolerance to juglone have not been included in the table.

	Sensitive to Juglone	Tolerant of Juglone
Vegetables	asparagus, cabbage, eggplant, pepper, potato, rhubarb, tomato	beans, beet, carrot, corn, melon, onion, parsnip, squash
Flowers	autumn crocus, chrysanthemum, forget-me-not, petunia, peonies	aster, astilbe, bee balm, begonia, black-eyed Susan, bluebell, calendula, crocus, daylily, ferns, grape hyacinth, some hosta varieties, hollyhock, impatiens, Jack-in-the-pulpit, Jacob’s ladder, marigold, morning glory, pansy, phlox, Siberian iris, squill, sweet woodruff, trillium, zinnia
Trees	alder, apple and crabapple, basswood, pine, spruce, silver maple, white birch	black locust, catalpa, Eastern redbud, hackberry, Canadian hemlock, hickory, most maples, oaks, pagoda dogwood, poplar, red cedar
Shrubs and Vines	azalea, blackberry (and most berries other than black raspberry), cotoneaster, hydrangea, lilac, mountain laurel, potentilla, privet, rhododendron, yew	arborvitae, bittersweet, black raspberry, clematis, currant, forsythia, euonymus, greenbrier, most honeysuckle, pachysandra, rose-of-Sharon, sumac, most viburnum, Virginia creeper, wild grape, wild rose, willow, witch hazel
Field Crops and Grasses	alfalfa, tobacco	fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, orchard grass, soybean, timothy, wheat, white clover

For more information on black walnut toxicity:

Contact the University of Wisconsin Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic (PDDC) at (608) 262-2863 or pddc@wisc.edu.

This Fact Sheet is also available in PDF format:

Full Color PDF

Thanks to Lisa Johnson, Mike Maddox and Patti Nagai for reviewing this document.

A complete inventory of UW Plant Disease Facts is available at the University of Wisconsin-Madison Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic website: https://pddc.wisc.edu.

Submit additional lawn, landscape, and gardening questions at https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/ask-a-gardening-question/.

Disease - Herbaceous Ornamental, Disease - Vegetable

Bacterial Soft Rot

July 6, 2015 hudelson

UW Plant Disease Facts

Authors: Tobias Lunt*, UW-Madison Plant Pathology

Last Revised: 02/28/2024

D-number: D0010

What is bacterial soft rot?

Bacterial soft rot describes a group of diseases that cause more crop loss worldwide than any other bacterial disease. Bacterial soft rots damage succulent plant parts such as fruits, tubers, stems and bulbs of plants in nearly every plant family. Soft rots commonly affect vegetables such as potato, carrot, tomato, cucurbits (e.g., cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins), and cruciferous crops (e.g., cabbage, cauliflower, bok choy). These diseases can occur on crops in the field as well as on harvested crops in storage. Rot can occur over a wide temperature range (with the worst decay between 70 and 80°F) and is particularly severe when oxygen is limited.

Bacterial soft rots cause the collapse of plant parts such as potato tubers. (Photo courtesy of the UW-Madison/Extension Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic)

What does bacterial soft rot look like?

Soft rot bacteria degrade pectate molecules that bind plant cells together, thus causing plant structure to fall apart. Woody tissues are not susceptible. Initially, bacterial soft rots cause water-soaked spots. These spots enlarge over time and become sunken and soft. Interior tissues beneath the spots become mushy and discolored, with the discoloration ranging anywhere from cream to black. Seepage from affected areas is common. Soft rots are known for a strong, disagreeable odor that accompanies the breakdown of plant tissue.

Where does bacterial soft rot come from?

Soft rots are caused by several bacteria, most commonly species of Pectobacterium [particularly Pectobacterium carotovorum (previously called Erwinia carotovora)], Dickeya species [particularly Dickeya dadantii (previously called Erwinia chrysanthemi)], and certain species of Pseudomonas, Bacillus and Clostridium. These bacteria can enter plants through wounds caused by tools, insects, and severe weather such as hail, as well as through natural openings. The bacteria can be spread from plant to plant by insects, on contaminated tools, or by movement of infested plant debris, soil, or contaminated water. Bacterial soft rots tend to be more of a problem during wet weather and can be more severe when plants lack sufficient calcium.

How do I save a plant with bacterial soft rot?

Once soft rot bacteria have infected plant tissue, there are no treatments. Immediately remove and discard infected plants or plant parts. DO NOT bury or compost this material.

How do I avoid problems with bacterial soft rot in the future?

Avoiding wet conditions is key for managing soft rot. Plant vegetables in well- drained soils, and control watering times and amounts, making sure plants are watered adequately (but not excessively) and uniformly. DO NOT crowd plants; wider spacing will promote more rapid drying of plants and soil. Make sure that soil fertility (particularly soil calcium) is optimal for the vegetables that you are growing based on a soil nutrient test. Add calcium (e.g., bone meal) at planting as needed.

Use soft rot-resistant vegetables in rotation with susceptible vegetables. Corn, snap beans and beets are vegetables that are not considered susceptible to soft rot. When growing broccoli, avoid varieties with flat/concave heads that trap moisture and promote soft rot. Instead, select varieties with domed heads where water readily drains away.

Avoid damaging vegetables when weeding and during harvest. Minimize any handling of soft-rotted plants, but if you must handle such plants (e.g., to remove them from the garden), wash your hands afterwards with soap and water. Decontaminate garden tools before and after use by treating them for at least 30 seconds with 10% bleach or preferably (because of its less corrosive properties), 70% alcohol. Rubbing alcohol and many spray disinfectants typically contain approximately 70% alcohol. Also, keep insects that can wound vegetables such as cabbage maggot under control (see University of Wisconsin Garden Facts XHT1030, Cabbage Maggot, for details).

Harvest only during dry conditions. Closely inspect vegetables from infected gardens that will go into long-term storage, and be sure not to store any diseased vegetables. Cure vegetables where appropriate prior to storage. Store vegetables in a cool, dry, well-aerated place to suppress bacterial growth.

At the end of the growing season, remove any infested plant debris remaining in your garden, and destroy the material by burning (where allowed by local ordinance) or landfilling it. If soft rot is a serious, recurring problem in an area in your garden, DO NOT grow susceptible crops in that area for a minimum of three years.

For more information on bacterial soft rot:

Contact the University of Wisconsin Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic (PDDC) at (608) 262-2863 or pddc@wisc.edu.

This Fact Sheet is also available in PDF format:

Full Color PDF

*Completed as partial fulfillment of the requirements for Plant Pathology 558 at the University of Wisconsin Madison.

Thanks to Breann Bender, Amy Charkowski, Mary Pelzer, Scott Reuss, Isael Rubio – Salazar and Mary Thurber for reviewing this document.

A complete inventory of UW Plant Disease Facts is available at the University of Wisconsin-Madison Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic website: https://pddc.wisc.edu.

Submit additional lawn, landscape, and gardening questions at https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/ask-a-gardening-question/.

Disease - Herbaceous Ornamental, Disease - Vegetable

Aster Yellows

July 6, 2015 hudelson

UW Plant Disease Facts

Authors: Brian Hudelson, UW-Madison Plant Pathology

Last Revised: 02/28/2024

D-number: D0007

What is aster yellows?

Aster yellows is a chronic, systemic disease that affects over 300 species of broad-leafed, herbaceous plants in at least 38 families. Members of the aster family (Asteraceae), such as asters, marigolds, Coreopsis and purple coneflower are commonly affected by this disease. Vegetable crops such as carrots and potatoes are also susceptible. Aster yellows occurs throughout North America.

Coneflowers with aster yellows (right) often have deformed, discolored flowers.

What does aster yellows look like?

Infected plants are typically stunted and twisted, with foliage that is yellow, purple or red. Infected plants are often sterile. Floral parts that are normally brightly colored may be green, and petals and sepals may become puckered and distorted. In purple coneflower, secondary flower heads (often in a cluster) may emerge from the primary flower head. In marigolds, flowers are often leafy and a muddy green-orange color. Infected carrots have purple/red leaves and form taproots with tufts of small, white “hairy” roots. Tap roots from infected carrots often have a bitter taste.

Where does aster yellows come from?

Aster yellows is caused by the aster yellows phytoplasma, a bacterium-like organism that lives in the food-conducting tissue (phloem) of plants. Aster yellows is rarely lethal. Thus, infected perennials can serve as a source of the aster yellows phytoplasma for many years. The aster leafhopper (Macrosteles fascifrons), a common insect, moves the aster yellows phytoplasma from plant to plant.

How do I save a plant with aster yellows?

There is no known cure for aster yellows. Plants suspected of having aster yellows, including weeds such as dandelions, should be removed immediately so that the aster yellows phytoplasma cannot be spread from infected plants to other non-infected plants in the area. Proper diagnosis of aster yellows is important because management of herbicide and eriophyid mite damaged plants does not require plant removal.

How do I avoid problems with aster yellows in the future?

Some herbaceous plants (e.g., geraniums and impatiens), as well as most woody ornamentals, are not susceptible to aster yellows. Therefore these plants should be used in areas where aster yellows is a problem. In landscape settings, attempts to control aster leafhoppers as a means of controlling aster yellows are typically not effective and are not recommended.

For more information on aster yellows:

Contact the University of Wisconsin Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic (PDDC) at (608) 262-2863 or pddc@wisc.edu.

This Fact Sheet is also available in PDF format:

Full Color PDF

Thanks to Lisa Johnson, Ann Joy and Ann Wied for reviewing this document.

A complete inventory of UW Plant Disease Facts is available at the University of Wisconsin-Madison Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic website: https://pddc.wisc.edu.

Submit additional lawn, landscape, and gardening questions at https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/ask-a-gardening-question/.