At this time of the year, plant diseases are in full swing. When you see diseases in your garden, a natural tendency is to want to do something to make things better. In some instances however, ignoring the problem and doing nothing can be your best course of action. Here are my picks for plant diseases where turning a blind eye (at least right now) will not significantly harm your plants and will make your life easier and less stressful.
Powdery mildews. On most plants, powdery mildews don’t do much damage. Ignore them now and concentrate on good fall clean up to reduce problems with these diseases next year. For plants such as phlox, bee balms, cucumbers and pumpkins, powdery mildews can be more problematic. You may want to consider growing powdery mildew-resistant varieties of these plants in the future.
Tar spot. This disease of maples can be visually alarming but is another disease that typically has little impact on overall plant health. Just be sure to collect infected leaves in the fall and burn (where allowed), bury or hot compost them to help reduce problems with the disease next year.
Cedar-apple rust. Seeing bright yellow or orange spots on your crabapple leaves? If so, you’re likely seeing this disease. Spraying fungicides to control cedar-apple is a total waste. Save your time, money and energy and prune out the galls on junipers caused by the disease (and the source of the spores that infect your crabapples) or alternatively, just remove nearby junipers
Remember. . . Before choosing a control strategy, know thy plant disease.
As plants in your garden grow and fill in, wet and humid conditions will arise that are perfect for diseases to develop. Follow the tips below to prevent diseases in your garden by opening up air flow, reducing humidity and keeping leaves dry.
Leave plenty of space between new transplants. Think ahead to how big plants will be when full-size, and leave enough space so that foliage on adjacent plants won’t overlap when plants are fully grown.
Divide perennials. Plants like peonies and daylilies grow in clumps that can get quite large, and leaf disease problems tend to increase with clump size. So, divide clumps to yield smaller plants that trap less moist air. Dividing and replanting will also allow you to correct existing spacing problems.
Thin plants judiciously as they get big. Remove enough leaves and stems to promote good air flow, but not so many that the plants look thin and lanky.
Weed, weed, weed. Ornamentals aren’t the only plants that trap moist air; weeds can do this, too. Removing weeds routinely can reduce the need to thin the ornamentals that you really want in your garden.
Water from below. Even though Mother Nature supplies water from above in the form of rain, when you need to water, apply water to the soil, rather than over the tops of plants. Keep leaves dry whenever possible.
With just a little effort, you can create a microclimate in your garden that is less favorable for plant diseases and end up with more vibrant, beautiful, and healthy plants.
May is a prime time to visit your local greenhouse, nursery or garden center to buy annuals, perennials and vegetables for your home garden. Unfortunately, these plants can be carriers of plant disease-causing organisms. Here are some pointers on what to look for when buying plants.
Select plants that are vigorously growing, but aren’t overly leggy. Stunted plants often have diseases (e.g., root rots or viral diseases). Leggy plants may be healthy, but often have growth that is wimpy and easily injured. Injured tissue can provide entry points for plant pathogens.
Avoid plants with brown leaf spots. Dead spots on leaves can indicate fungal or bacterial infections. The pathogens involved continue to reproduce in these areas and can spread on the plant, and potentially to other plants.
Avoid plants with odd leaf coloring. Some plants have variegated foliage. That’s normal. However, if you see plants with unexpected blotchy light and dark-colored leaves, yellow lines or yellow ring patterns, avoid these. They may be infected with a virus.
Avoid plants with fuzzy growth on the leaves. Such growth typically indicates a fungal or water mold infection. For example, white growth on upper and lower leaf surfaces can indicate a powdery mildew problem; white, gray or purplish growth on the undersides of leaves is typical of a downy mildew
Choose plants with healthy, white roots. Examine plant roots whenever possible. If roots are brown or otherwise discolored, root rots or some sort of physical root injury (e.g., heat injury) may be an issue.
With just a little care, you can buy healthy, pathogen-free plants that will provide months, if not years, of gardening enjoyment.
April conjures up visions of spring rain showers, eventually leading to May flowers. While Mother Nature waters plants using an overhead sprinkling system (i.e., rain), from plant disease standpoint, this type of watering is less than optimal.
What’s the problem with watering from above? Overhead watering wets leaves creating what plant pathologists call a “leaf wetness period,” a time when a thin layer of water coats the leaf. This layer of water is exactly what most plant diseases-causing fungi require for their spores to germinate and infect. The longer the leaf wetness period, the more likely leaf diseases will be a problem.
What do I do to prevent watering issues? You can’t prevent rain, but during dry periods when you need to water, don’t simulate rain by using a sprinkler. Instead, use a soaker or drip hose that directs water into the soil rather than onto leaves. Water at low pressure so that any sprays from these hoses are minimized. When it does rain, promote rapid drying of leaves by spacing plants as far apart as possible in new plantings, and thinning existing beds to increase spacing. Wider plant spacing increases air flow, promotes more rapid drying of leaves (when leaves do get wet), and shortens leaf wetness periods, making it more difficult for plant pathogens to get a foothold. Don’t overwater either. Excessive soil moisture eventually increases humidity around plants, which slows leaf drying and lengthens leaf wetness periods.
By taking just a little extra care in how you water, you can have a big impact on the health of the plants in your garden.
After a long, cold winter, it’s time to start growing plants from seeds for the upcoming growing season. Damping-off is a common disease that can prevent seed-starting success. Here are tips that can help prevent damping-off from being a problem.
Buy high quality seed from a reputable source. High quality seeds are less likely to carry damping-off organisms.
Use pasteurized soil. Pasteurized soil has been steam treated to kill pathogens.
Use clean pots/containers. Store new pots or flats in sealed plastic bags to prevent possible pathogen contamination prior to use. When reusing pots, soak them in 10% bleach (1 part of a disinfecting bleach, 9 parts water) for 30 minutes, then rinse well to remove bleach residues.
Plant seeds at the proper depth. This will promote quick germination and rapid growth of seedlings out of the early stages of growth when they are most susceptible to damping-off.
Start seeds at higher temperatures. This will again help plants grow out of their susceptible phase quickly. Consider using a seed-starting heat pad (available at your local garden center), particularly if you start seeds in a colder part of your home (e.g., a basement).
Don’t overwater! Damping-off organisms are more active in wet soils. Water enough to keep seedlings alive, but keep plants a bit on the dry side to slow development of damping-off pathogens.
Seed starting can be a fun way to start the gardening season. With just a little extra effort, you can prevent damping-off from dampening your gardening efforts.
Although it doesn’t seem like the optimal time to be gardening, February is actually a great time to be out pruning your trees and shrubs to make them more structurally sound and aesthetically pleasing.
Why prune now? Whenever you prune, you create wounds that potentially can serve as entry points for disease-causing fungi and bacteria. If you prune in the spring and summer (when it’s warmer and often wetter), these organisms are very active and more likely land on fresh pruning cuts and infect. When the weather is colder and drier (as it tends to be in February in Wisconsin), disease-causing organisms are much less active and the chances of them infecting though pruning cuts is much reduced.
How do I go about pruning? Check out University of Wisconsin Garden Facts XHT1013 (Pruning Evergreens), XHT1014 (Pruning Deciduous Trees) and XHT1015 (Pruning Deciduous Shrubs) for pointers on how to prune. Prune only when it’s dry, and decontaminate pruning tools between cuts (or at a minimum between each tree or shrub) by treating them with 70% alcohol (e.g., rubbing alcohol right out of the bottle, spray disinfectants containing ~70% alcohol) or (in a pinch) 10% bleach. Decontaminating tools kills off disease-causing organisms that you might pick up as you prune. Once done pruning, if you’ve used bleach, be sure to thoroughly rinse your tools, and oil them to prevent them from rusting.
By pruning regularly and taking a few simple precautions as you do, you will end up with trees that are beautiful, structurally sound and healthy.
As the holiday season wraps up and you begin to put away your decorations for the year, be aware that certain perishable holiday items need to be disposed of properly. In particular, be careful of how you dispose of holiday wreaths and other garlands that contain boxwood sprigs.
Why the concern? Boxwood-containing holiday decorations have been found to be a potential source for the fungus that causes boxwood blight. This disease has been devastating boxwood plantings in the East for nearly a decade and was recently (starting in 2018) found in Wisconsin in both nursery stock and in home landscapes plantings. While documented cases of boxwood blight in Wisconsin have been relatively few, it’s important to do everything possible to reduce spread of the boxwood blight fungus. Boxwood is THE most valuable woody ornamental produced and used in landscapes in the US.
What can I do? When disposing of your holiday wreaths and garlands, check to see if they have boxwood sprigs. If you are unsure, assume that they do. Dispose of any suspect materials by burning them if that is allowed in your local municipality. If burning is not possible, bury the materials at least two feet underground (most likely impractical in Wisconsin in January) or double bag the materials in sturdy garbage bags and have them landfilled.